freezing winter or warmer summer surf?

photograph by Emlyn Stokes

Even with this cold, blustery weather bearing down on us, I want to get in the water. Yes, I know I’m crazy but I’m thinking about one of my things to do before my next birthday…I want to not only learn how to surf but go to a surf camp.

My fascination with surfing started back in high school. I’m not sure if there was one moment more than another but I remember subscribing to Surfing and Surfer. I thought that Rob Machado and Kelly Slater were hotties! I had this dream of being one of those surfers that finishes a session and come back to the VW bus and put on a pair of Uggs to keep my feet warm (Mind you, this was before the explosion of regular Joes like you and me wearing them.)

Then I headed to Hawaii for college. Logical place to learn how to surf, right? In my two years of living there, I got on a board ONCE. I tried some baby waves at Waikiki on a long board. It was pretty lame plus I got wax all over my bathing suit. What a mess.

Luckily, I live nearby that BIG, blue thing called the Pacific Ocean so I probably have many surf camps to choose from up and down the coastline. I’ve got to start looking at the options for the summer nearby. Otherwise, I fear, they’ll all be booked up and I won’t have anywhere to go…except maybe Hawaii!


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